2021 is the year that everyone in the UK flocked to Devon and Cornwall. Going abroad comes with a whole host of worries and hoops you have to jump through in a post-pandemic world. Travel companies have gone under and people have lost money. Tourists have been trapped in different countries when borders closed. It has just felt easier this year to stay in the UK for our holidays (check out some more UK destination ideas here). After all, we’ve been stuck inside our houses for so much of the last 2 years, any trip feels like a luxury!
And so, for our 2021 summer holiday, I decided to go down to South Devon. My first trip to Devon as it happens. I chose Dartmouth for our destination as I had seen a photo of it on Instagram a couple of years back and it had stuck in my mind as a picturesque place to visit. But I didn’t really know much more about it to be honest. I just wanted a nice break somewhere pretty near the sea. And Dartmouth didn’t disappoint.
I’ve rounded up all of my tips and recommendations for Dartmouth into this post, so hopefully it’ll help you plan your trip. Or at least inspire you to take a peek at South Devon on your next UK getaway.
Dartmouth: How To Get There and Where To Park
Dartmouth is a pretty little town in South Devon along the River Dart. Of course getting there depends on where you’re coming from, but it’s easily accessible from the M5 via the A38.
I just wanted to make you aware that this will likely involve going over the river by ferry. Which definitely took me by surprise when I followed the sat nav and arrived at a river! We took the “Higher Ferry” which is super simple, you just drive on and pay a fee (contactless card payments only), no need to pre-book. And then drive off the other side. The Higher Ferry works via cables under water that pull the boat along so it’s very smooth. (I’ve pictured below the Lower Ferry which looks a bit more precarious, being pulled by a tug boat…)
If you’re coming by public transport, the nearest train station to Dartmouth is Totnes, which is accessible by trains travelling from London and Birmingham. You then need to follow-up with a bus, taxi or boat down the River Dart.
One thing I want to highlight is that parking is pretty terrible in Dartmouth. You definitely get the impression that more people visit the town than there are parking spaces for as you can find yourself driving in circles round the Mayor’s Avenue car park waiting for a space to open up. We even had a parking permit from our Airbnb and struggled to find a space during the day. I would definitely recommend using the Park and Ride if you can. It sounds a bit naff but it’s literally 5 minutes up the road and the shuttle buses run very regularly. Its way quicker and easier than finding a space in town. Trust me. (It was also Indi’s first bus journey so we all enjoyed it!)
Where To Stay in Dartmouth
On my visit we stayed in an Airbnb as it seemed the most cost-effective option at the time. There are actually lots of more affordable Airbnb options staying just outside of Dartmouth but I wanted somewhere we could easily walk to and from, just for convenience. And we found a lovely little place called Middle Silver, which is super central yet very quiet, has a nice patio and was kid-friendly for our family stay.
There actually aren’t loads of hotels in the area (Bayard’s Cove Inn as mentioned above looks lovely though) but lots of self-catering cottages. I think your best bet is Airbnb as there are lots of wonderful rentals available. (But be prepared to pay Devon prices which are often just as much than going abroad…).
Best places to eat and drink in Dartmouth
Rockfish – If you’re in the mood for seafood, Rockfish has a great reputation and a variety of freshly caught, local sustainable fish available. It’s on the South embankment overlooking the River Dart, but gets booked up so try to secure a table ahead of your trip. (We actually found that a lot of places were booked up so it’s worth doing Future You a favour and booking some places for dinner before you get to Dartmouth.)
If you don’t manage to get a table, Rockfish actually have a takeaway shop a few minutes away on Lower Street. We went there for dinner one night and sat out on Bayard’s Cove, overlooking the water. The menu isn’t as big but the food is just as good (a pretty banging curry sauce I have to say), so it’s worth a go. Especially on a sunny evening, it’s a pretty magical spot.
Bunned – I mentioned lots of places were booked up along the river, but when you venture a bit further back into Dartmouth town, you do find some gems. Bunned is a fabulous burger and hot dog joint that we really enjoyed. They do have a kids menu (but it’s basically adult-sized food!) but it still feels quite cool and the staff are lovely. Deffo worth a visit.
Bayard’s Cove Inn – For pub grub that’s a bit fancy, check out Bayard’s Cove Inn. It’s a cute Tudor building, that also has gorgeous rooms upstairs, but it gets booked up fast (noticing a trend?). They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and focus on seasonal menus. Also cater for vegetarians, vegans, gluten-free, as well as having Kids menus. So it pretty much has it all! A lovely little place to visit on your Dartmouth vacay.
Dart Cafe – If you just want somewhere chill to pop in and have a coffee, a spot of brunch or some decent scones, Dart Cafe is a good shout. It’s a bit off the beaten track up a side street and is quite small, but you can tell it’s a local favourite. The people are really nice, the coffee is good, and it feels like a good place to go first thing and plan out your day, y’know?
Bespoke – Talking of coffee, if you’re after the good stuff, y’know, the artisan, East-London, expertly crafted kind of coffee, then head to Bespoke. It’s a bit tucked away, but seriously the coffee is GOOD. We also had freshly baked croissants there, as well as some locally-made sweet treats, and yeah, it’s a gem. If you really like coffee, you’ll really like this spot.
Cafe Alf Resco – For breakfast/brunch, you should check out Cafe Alf Resco. You can’t book, so you sometimes have to queue outside for a table (only took us 5 minutes). It’s a very casual place, with nautical decor and young staff, but it feels quite welcoming and the food is hearty and in big portions. They also have kids breakfasts so is a good place for families to check out. (Just try to ignore the fact that their tagline is Live Love Laugh…)
The Sail Loft – There’s not much going on at night in Dartmouth. Everyone who has visited for the day has gone home, and most people staying in Dartmouth go out for a low-key dinner. And it doesn’t feel like there are many places for a drink. That is except for The Sail Loft. Annoyingly we only discovered this bar and lounge on our last night, tucked away down Foss Street, but it is the ideal place for an after-dinner drink. The decor is millennial Instagram chic – think neon signs, rattan furniture, hanging chairs and lots of plants – but it still feels very seaside-y and casual. There’s a wide range of beers, wines and cocktails available, as well as pizza and nibbles if you’re peckish. A lovely little gem.
Things to do in Dartmouth
Dartmouth Castle – The main attraction in Dartmouth is Dartmouth Castle, an English Heritage fortress built in 1388, with gorge views across the river and out to sea. You can walk down (about 20 minutes from the town) or you can get a boat down to the castle entrance which is a bit more scenic. There are things for kids to do there, you can grab something to eat (mainly snacks/cakes) or there’s a nearby coastal walk you can do. At time of writing, adult tickets are £8.70 and kids are £5.20.
Steam Train Railway – Another big attraction on a tip to Dartmouth is the iconic Steam Train Railway that leaves from Kingswear and can take you to Torquay, Paignton, Brixham and Totnes. It’s a good chance to see other destinations in Devon and experience the Steam Railway all in one day. The Round Robin ticket takes you to all of the different places and on varous modes on transportation. But beware it can be pricey. Adult Round Robin tickets from Dartmouth are currently £33, so can add up for families. (Top tip: Kids just like it if you go to Kingswear and look at the trains and that’s completely free!)
Boat Trips – The appeal of Dartmouth is the harbour so getting out on the water is definitely recommended. Along the embankment you’ll find lots of companies offering scenic boat trips and tours. This blog post by By The Dart has some great suggestions.
Get the Ferry over to Kingswear – But this is my preference and it’s very cheap! Just get the passenger ferry over to Kingswear. It’s a quick trip but you get lovely views of both Kingswear and Dartmouth from the water. It’s £1.50 for adults and 50p for kids so very affordable and let’s you experience a little boat ride over and back again (my toddler loved it).
When you get to Kingswear there’s not loads to do, but I recommend walking up the road to the Steam Packet Inn for a drink or lunch. It’s a really lovely pub with cool decor, lots of fairy lights, great views of the harbour and delicious food (I recommend the pizza).
The Cherub Inn – I didn’t include The Cherub Inn pub in my food and drink section, because it’s a bit rough round the edges! But it’s good to stop in and take a look as it’s the oldest building in Dartmouth, dating back to 1380. It has lots of original feature such as old ships’ timbers, so if you’re into your history, give it a gander.
Explore the Independent Shops – There are few little boutiques and cute shops in Dartmouth so it’s worth exploring. I’m personally a fan of independent bookshops so enjoyed rummaging through the charming Compass Books (think stacks of second-hand books all over the floors) and checking out the recommendations at Browser (new books, a bit more polished). The Old Market is also worth a wander through.
It was honestly such a lovely trip and has inspired me to see more of Devon and the UK in general. I think we all naturally just book holidays abroad but there’s so much to see and do right on our doorstep.
Have you been to South Devon? Do you recommend anywhere else to visit in this part of the country? Let me know in the comments below or head on over to my Instagram for regular updates on my travels, millennial motherhood and life in general.
