The Ultimate Guide To Cinque Terre, Italy

As you might know, I headed back to one of my favourite places in the world last week – Cinque Terre in Italy.

I’ve actually written about this glorious place before – I went 3 years ago and posted about what to do there and where to stay. But on this trip, I definitely took note of some changes happening in Cinque Terre that I wanted to share with you.

Plus, I’ve had a few messages asking how to get there and some questions about the more practical side of visiting Cinque Terre. So I figured a bumper guide to the destination is just what the doctor ordered.

(And I really mean BUMPER – this post has 2,300 words and 40 photos…)

The Ultimate Guide To Cinque Terre

How To Get There

The closest airport to Cinque Terre is Genoa. Both times I visited I got Ryanair return flights from London Stansted, which were super affordable and at pretty good times.

But the thing is, Genoa isn’t actually that close to Cinque Terre, so you do need to get a train. Oh but there’s not a train station at the airport… Yeah it’s a bit complicated. But totally doable. Stay with me, babes…

There’s a train station that’s a 10-15 minute walk from the airport called Genova Sestri Ponente. I’ve read people questioning whether this walk is “safe” as there’s not much of a pavement for pedestrians, but trust me, it’s fine. There’s a barrier between the road and pavement, and there are crossings everywhere. I think people just aren’t used to walking from an airport! But google maps it, it’s no big deal, pal.

You’ll likely be going to Levanto (but more on that in a sec) and there are direct trains from here. But in my experience these are slow trains that stop at all stations and there’s not many of them. So you may have to do a quick change at Genova Brignole.

But you can work this out when you get to the train station using the big red machine in the station building.

I wrote a full post about travelling through Italy by train because it’s really easy. Just go to one of the red machines, choose your destination (Levanto) and it will tell you the best way to get there (including what time the train will arrive, the platform, etc). It’s super informative and makes what could be a difficult journey, completely transparent.

But always remember to validate your ticket before you get on the train! (Small green oval machines on the walls)

When To Go

The downside to Cinque Terre is how many people actually visit this gorgeous region. I’ve read horror stories of how packed the towns can get but I think the key is to visit in the shoulder season.

During the summer months of June/July/August it can be hella busy so aim for either April/May or September/October. It’s still warm enough with that A+ Mediterranean climate, but the amount of day trippers is dramatically reduced.

When you’re visiting the five towns, also think about the timing. Day trips tend to either start at Monterosso and go south or start at Riomaggiore and go north, meaning that both of these towns are busiest in the morning and the end of the day. So just keep that in mind when choosing when to visit each of these gorgeous lil towns. Staying nearby means you have the benefit of seeing them in a different order and minimising the crowds.

Stay In Levanto

Speaking of which, let’s talk about Levanto. It’s one stop on the train from the Cinque Terre and is just a lovely place to stay in its own right, so I completely recommend staying here.

Levanto has lots of hotels, apartments and Airbnb options. On my recent trip I stayed at Benedetta Apartment which was amazing and spacious and meant we could cook at home. Plus, it had a gorge balcony and was close to the train station.

But in the past I’ve also stayed at La Francesca, a very Dirty Dancing-esque retro resort with pretty views. But beware it’s a long walk to the train station. I’ve also stayed in the Cinque Terre itself, staying at Mar Mar hostel in Riomaggiore, but I do think it’s nice to get away from the crowds by staying in Levanto instead.

But hey, let’s talk more about Levanto because I have LOTS of recommendations.

For breakfast, go to Bianchi Gino for a chocolate pastry and cappuccino. Oh or Cafe Roma for really good coffee.

For lunch, try the AMAZING focaccia at Focacceria Domè. Josh and I literally went there every day and tried all the flavours. There’s also great focaccia and slices of pizza at Bianchetto.

For the best aperitivo of your life (aka free snacks with drinks around 5-6pm), head to Crystal. You literally get an entire platter of cured meat treats, olives and breads.

Dinner-wise, there are some A+ restaurants in Levanto. La Picea has pizza so good that I wrote a whole post about it on my last trip (over here), and Trattoria Cavour does amazing lasagna.

Oh and did I mention this place is pretty damn beautiful too with lush green mountains and a pebble beach? It’s a winner, trust me.

Getting Around

It’s super easy to get from Levanto to the 5 towns of Cinque Terre by train.

You can buy a Cinque Terre card from the station, which gives you unlimited train rides between Levanto and La Spezia for the day (all of Cinque Terre) for €16. This used to actually be €10 a couple of years ago, presumably it’s rising as the destination has gotten so popular. But it’s still good value if you’re going to see a few of the towns in one day.

If you’re only planning on doing one or two towns in a day though, it’s actually cheaper to buy singles. You can use those big red machines at the station again and singles cost €4 a pop.

The Hiking Life

So other than the Instagrammable beauty that is the five colourful towns of Cinque Terre, it’s also known for the hiking trails between the towns. I tried one out on my recent trip, hiking from Levanto to Monterosso, but I’m writing a full post on that with some tips. Because I felt v unprepared. For now, just be aware that the routes are not really for beginners.

Also, the quickest and easiest route – the coastal route from Manarola to Riomaggiore called Via Dell’amore – is actually closed due to erosion. So y’know, just FYI.

Monterosso al Mare

Okay, let’s talk about the towns themselves! All five towns are similarly beautiful but have their differences. And the northernmost town, Monterosso, has a very retro Italian Riviera chic vibe.

It’s also the one with a proper beach, with colourful orange and green umbrellas to snap for your Insta. As you leave the train station, there’s a long strip by the beach where you can buy delicious gelato (I massively recommend Slurp, it’s really good and all the Italians seem to go here) and take in the pretty coastal view.

Monterosso is kinda split in two, so one side is this lovely stretch of beach with the train station and various cafes, then you have to go through a pedestrian tunnel that takes you through to the town part. Here is where you’ll find lovely boutique shops (it’s where I bought my straw circle bag), a couple of really pretty churches and generally just more gorge, colourful buildings.

I’ve also had lunch here before at Il Casello 1868, which was nice but a little pricey. Monterosso in general I’ve always thought is a little pricey actually. But oh so beaut. It’s also quite commercial with lots of daytrippers, but you can see why they all come here. It’s got a certain Riviera charm about it for sure.

Vernazza

The next town going south is Vernazza. This is full of more colourful houses but it’s USP seems to be a little stretch of marina with cute little row boats lined up. This is a great place to just chill with a beer from the nearby cafes. Here, you also get a view of the lush green mountains and the bell tower of Santa Margherita di Antiochia Church that overlooks this little spot.

On my first visit this was the extent of my exploration, but more recently I had a chance to explore the little lanes that weave up from the main road. And wow, they’re gorgeous. Colourful doors, lots of plants, cute lamps and gates – these buildings are so photogenic, and weirdly most of the tourists don’t seem to explore beyond the main road from the train station to the marina.

I definitely recommend having a wander and getting lost amongst these cute buildings.

If you do the hikes, I’ve also seen photos of Vernazza from above and it looks insane. Like I said, the hiking trails aren’t for the faint-hearted but if you’re a pro-hiker, definitely hike to or from Vernazza for those A+ views.

Oh and if you’re after a cheap and cheerful lunch, I recommend Lunch Box for delish focaccia sandwiches, babes.

Corniglia

I’ve actually only been to Corniglia once and it was a fleeting visit.

You see, this is the only town set high on the cliffs that involves tourists having to trek up 370 steps from the train station to the actual town. Which y’know, I’m okay with, I definitely need more exercise. But when I got up there, I was a bit disappointed. It’s definitely the quietest of the Cinque Terre towns and there just didn’t seem to be much atmosphere. There’s a church and a spot where you can get panoramic views, but I don’t know, I just wasn’t really feeling it.

I have heard that this is a great place for a glass of wine though as it is surrounded by vineyards. So definitely check it out for yourself.

It’s just my least favourite tbh. But hey, the worst of Cinque Terre is still better than coastal towns anywhere else, right?

Manarola

Next up is Manarola. This one has the money shot of views, pal. In the other towns you see the showstopping views from hiking trails or from boats or from drones. But in Manarola you can get epic views of the town just by walking 5 mins along the coast to the other side of the little bay.

There’s a little pathway called Via Dei Bambino which is a cute cobbled lane through gardens with some benches to sit and take in the view. There’s also a park for kids (obvs Josh and I went on the swings…) and a café along here. And then if you go further up there’s a cemetery right at the top, which sounds morbid but is quite quaint. Oh and if you go around the other side you can get a faraway view of Corniglia.

It’s a nice and easy walk with views for days. You have to go.

If you head back to the main cluster of buildings, grab a coffee or a gelato and just enjoy this lovely lil town. This is also where the Via Dell’Amore starts but, like I said, it’s closed. However, the first little 5 mins is still accessible if you want to have a walk and take in the ocean views. I mean you’ll have to turn around and go back on yourself but it’s still really nice here.

Riomaggiore

Okay, the last one in Cinque Terre is my total favourite – beautiful Riomaggiore!

This babe of a town has it all.

As you come out from the train station, there’s a tunnel that leads out to Via Colombo, a road of shops and restaurants – a lot more than other towns. Here you can get a cone of seafood or a gelato. But there’s also some nice places for dinner – I’m a big fan of Il Grottino – the ragu ravioli is amazing. And Bar O’Netto is a great shout for a glass of wine and some snacks. (This is actually underneath the Mar Mar hostel I stayed at last time).

There’s another tunnel, where the one to the train station is, that takes you through to the marina area. If you go to the left, you can climb some steps to get the Insta-famous view of Riomaggiore. I mean it’s only right, you need that snap. Here is also where you’ll find a cute café that does really good sandwiches, overlooking THAT view.

If you go further around the coast, you’re greeted with a pebble beach. This is such a nice spot to just have a little sit-down or attempt to skim stones into the sea. Def recommend walking round.

If we rewind a sec to when you came out of the tunnel, facing the marina, if you go to the right instead of the left, you’ll get a totally different view.

There’s lots of steps and winding lanes and most of the time you won’t know if you’re going the right way. That’s the beauty of Riomaggiore. But right at the top, there’s an epic view of the town from above. This is actually where Josh proposed and it looks oh so pretty at night. It’s worth the million and one steps up, I promise.

You can also wander down a slope here to a church and for more scenic views of the chocolate-box pastel houses. Oh and sunset up here is amazing by the way.

There you have it, the ultimate guide to one of my fave places, Cinque Terre. And now where I got engaged! (Read that post over here!).

Let me know if there’s anything else you want to know about Cinque Terre and this part of the Italian Riviera! Comment below, tweet me at @HeelsInBackpack or find me over on Insta at @Heels.In.My.Backpack!